In January 2026, I traveled to northern Mongolia to visit the Tsaatan reindeer herders. It was not an easy journey to organize, involving long overland travel into one of the most remote regions of the Mongolian taiga, combined with some of the harshest winter conditions on Earth. Despite the logistical challenges and extreme cold, it became an unforgettable adventure, and we were fortunate to witness something truly rare and extraordinary.
January in northern Mongolia is known for its brutal winter climate, with average daytime temperatures ranging from −20°C to −30°C (−4°F to −22°F). At night, temperatures frequently drop below −30°C (−22°F), and can reach −38°C to −40°C (−36°F to −40°F). During our visit, a powerful Arctic air mass swept across the region, causing an exceptional temperature plunge. Daytime temperatures hovered between −40°C and −45°C (−40°F to −49°F), and at times fell as low as −53°C (−63°F). Under such conditions, even standing outdoors for extended periods becomes physically exhausting, and operating a camera turns into a serious technical challenge. I plan to write a separate article soon on how to keep yourself warm and how to operate photographic equipment in such extreme cold.
The Tsaatan people, also known as the Dukha, are a nomadic tribe living deep within the taiga of northern Mongolia. They are among the very few remaining nomadic reindeer herding communities in the world. Today, approximately 400 Tsaatan individuals, comprising around 70 to 80 families, live in small, tightly knit groups, entirely dependent on their reindeer herds for survival.
Reindeer are central to every aspect of Tsaatan life. They serve as the primary means of transportation, used for hunting, collecting firewood, seasonal migration, visiting relatives, and traveling to nearby towns for trade and supplies. In a landscape where roads are nonexistent and winter dominates much of the year, reindeer remain the most reliable and sustainable mode of travel.
Reindeer milk forms the foundation of the Tsaatan diet. Rich and highly nutritious, it is used to produce essential foods such as cheese, butter, yogurt, and milk tea. During the milking season, a single reindeer can yield approximately 96 to 100 liters of milk, sustaining entire families through the long winters.
The Tsaatan begin training their reindeer for riding when the animals are just two years old. At this stage, only children ride them, as adults are too heavy. By the age of three, the reindeer are strong enough to carry adults as well. During nomadic migrations, male reindeer typically carry loads of around 40 kilograms, while females carry approximately 30 kilograms. Remarkably adapted to extreme cold, reindeer remain strong and healthy throughout winter, using their hooves to dig through deep snow to reach moss, their primary food source.
For the Tsaatan reindeer herder, the teepee, known as an ortz, is far more than a simple shelter. It is a powerful symbol of movement, resilience, and harmony with nature. Constructed from slender wooden poles and covered with canvas, an ortz can be assembled or dismantled in just a few hours, allowing families to migrate easily with their herds as the seasons and grazing conditions change. Inside, life centers around a small stove, where warmth, cooking, and storytelling converge during long winter nights. The smoke hole above is both practical and symbolic, opening the home to the sky, spirits, and ancestors. Each camp is temporary by design. When pasture becomes scarce, families pack up quietly, leaving almost no trace behind. In this way, the ortz reflects the Tsaatan worldview: take only what is needed, move gently across the land, and live in balance with the forest and the reindeer that sustain life.
During the winter, the Tsaatan people hold multiple festivals celebrating reindeer and winter life, bringing together families from across the taiga to participate in a variety of competitions and cultural activities. We were fortunate to witness one of these vibrant festivals during our trip. Here’s a short clip capturing the excitement of the reindeer racing, a highlight of the celebrations and a joyful display of the herders’ skill and connection with their animals.
During this journey, we also had the rare opportunity to observe and photograph both Mongolian and Tsaatan shamanic rituals. These ceremonies, preserved through generations, offer profound insight into the spiritual beliefs that continue to shape daily life in the taiga. Witnessing these rituals firsthand revealed a deep connection between the Tsaatan people, their ancestors, and the natural world, providing powerful moments for reflection and visual storytelling.
We also visted Darkhad’s 13 Ovoos to witness and photograph the sunset over these sacred stone cairns, a powerful expression of local spirituality and reverence for nature. One of the most culturally significant landmarks along this route is this remarkable collection of ovoos, which hold deep meaning in both Mongolian shamanic and Buddhist traditions. Located at the southern entrance of the Darkhad Depression, just north of the Beltes River, this rare configuration consists of one large central ovoo surrounded by twelve smaller ones. Each of the smaller ovoos represents one of the twelve animals of the Mongolian zodiac: mouse, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, monkey, rooster, dog, and pig. According to local tradition, travelers entering the Darkhad Depression circle the main ovoo clockwise and then offer prayers at the ovoo corresponding to the animal of their birth year, seeking blessings, protection, and good fortune for the journey ahead.
Back in Murun city, we also visited Uushgiin Uvur Deer Stones, home to some of the best-preserved and most intricately carved Deer Stones from the Bronze Age. These ancient monuments, adorned with enigmatic carvings of deer and other symbols, offer a fascinating glimpse into Mongolia’s prehistoric past. Nearby, we will also explore newly discovered petroglyphs depicting a variety of animals and symbolic motifs, recently found by a local resident, adding another layer of historical intrigue to our journey.
Today, the Tsaatan reindeer herders face mounting challenges to their ancient way of life. New conservation laws have restricted traditional hunting practices once essential for subsistence. Climate change is rapidly altering their fragile environment, while shifting weather patterns expose reindeer to unfamiliar diseases. These pressures have made an already difficult existence even more uncertain.
Once entirely self-sufficient, many Tsaatan families now rely partially on government assistance and income from limited tourism to obtain essentials such as meat, flour, and other supplies. Despite their resilience and adaptability, their millennia-old traditions now stand at a fragile crossroads. Without careful balance between cultural preservation, environmental protection, and modern realities, one of the world’s last reindeer herding cultures risks fading into history.
